Slabs, slabs and even more slabs!

Monday 08/12/2014:

As a continuation of my climbing theme of and focus of slabs today I headed to The Mile End Wall to climb on slab problems and to work on my slab technique. I first headed to The Secret Garden to climb on the slab problems I mentioned before and to see if I could get higher on them but not to my surprise the slab area of the Secret Garden was closed due to a Roped Access course being taught there so instead I headed for the false rock slab in The Playground. I eyed up a very crimpy V3-V5 circuit problem where the first move that I almost managed to do was a push and pull rockover. The first hand hold for the right hand  was a sharp oval crimp and the second hand hold for the left hand was a crimpy undercut as for foot holds the girst foothold for the left foot was a triangular marrow hold that I could get my foot on. I nearly done as the move on my final try as I was not far from reaching the target which is a pyramidal crimp. It is a strange very subtle rockover that involves pushing with one hand on the oval crimp and left foot along with pulling on the undercut with the left hand – I know because I asked opne of the staff members who route sets there and who is a very good climber for help and he showed me how to do the move.

The holds for the crimpy pull-push rockover on the  blue V3-V5 circuit problem.
The holds for the crimpy pull-push rockover on the blue V3-V5 circuit problem.
More crimpy holds on that problem including a peanut/pebble one.
More crimpy holds on that problem including a peanut/pebble one.

The same p[roblem but showing  the final hold - I think.
The same problem but showing the final hold – I think.
After the slab problem in The Playground I headed to the main climbing area to see if I had enough psyche and commitment to do the blind moves again from last week and to see if I could go any further on those problems – I did manage to do the moves again and even hold onto the hold of the one round the arete for a second or two longer.

Friday 12/12/2014:

For a change I headed to the Mile End Wall instead of The Castle. After warm up and stretches I headed to The Secret Garden for slab work but not to my surprise another Roped Access course was being held there so I went to the main room and attempted a V1-V3 black and yellow circuit problem where it started on a large juggy side pull and rough-ish sloper on one side of the arete and the next hold was a flat crimp on the other side of the arete. What I did was pull the side pull and push the sloper and flag with the foot that is not on a hold then reach either hand – I tried with the one on the sloper, I was not sure if the move was subtle or a powerful move and when I did it I managed to touch the crimp for a few seconds. I kept doing the move but did not manage to reach the crimp.

V1-V3 black and yellow circuit problem start showing holds around the arete.
V1-V3 black and yellow circuit problem start showing holds around the arete.
The start but showing the crimp - it is just below the mini-roof section of the slab.
The start but showing the crimp – it is just below the mini-roof section of the slab.
Mini-roof section showing next holds and the final hold.
Mini-roof section showing next holds and the final hold.

The next problem I tried was the dark blue V3-V5 circuit problem that you can see most of the holds in the photos above and the same problem I tried a while back as per usual I did not manage to stand up on my foot and reach for the big sloper on the mini-roof that you can see on the photo above. There are many other interest slab problems on that slab including the pink V3 one where as far as I know a lot of pushing down is involved at the start. I then headed to The Playground to work on the blue V3-V5 crimp problem with the very subtle rockover from last time but still did not manage to get to the next hold.

I headed back to the main climbing are and found a new very interesting black and pink V4-V6 circuit problem on the arete of one of he overhangs. I think the problem has a sit start but I decided not do the sit start. The first hand hold is a small juggy side pull that lies on the side of the arete with the least amount of holds the second hold is a an oval crimp that is used as a sidepull on a triangular volume attached to the other side of the arete where most of the problem was. As for the foot hold it was a tiny peanut hold. With one hand – the one on the side pull – I made reach for the large slightly rough sloper with one positive part, held onto it, flagged out with the free foot and made a reach for a small crimp with the hand was on the other crimp (a crimp-to-crimp reach) but I could not hold onto the crimp for a long time – perhaps I should have matched hands on the sloper. What I needed to do next is get my free foot on the side pull with heel hook and rock up on it a crimp on another volume.

Pink and black V4-V6 circuit problem showing first volume, crimp, large sloper and juggy side pull - slightly overhanging.
Pink and black V4-V6 circuit problem showing first volume, crimp, large sloper and juggy side pull – slightly overhanging.
V4-V6 circuit problem showing second volume with two crimps on it: upper - mid section
V4-V6 circuit problem showing second volume with two crimps on it: upper – mid section
V4-V6 circuit problem: overhanging final section.
V4-V6 circuit problem: overhanging final section.
The same section but from a different view point.
The same section but from a different view point and showing final hold better.
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